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Mulching vs. Bagging in Spring: Equipment Considerations

A Practical Guide for Lawn Care Pros
By Justin Stultz, owner of Wildflower Lawn Care in Hutto, Texas
The spring greenup is the time of year that lawn care pros live for. With the grass growing at a pace that seems impossible to keep up with, choosing the right equipment setup can make a huge difference. While mulching saves time and bagging delivers a cleaner finish, the equipment requirements for each method differ significantly.

Making the wrong equipment choice, or running equipment that's not properly configured, costs you time, fuel, and replacement parts

Like most things in life, the answer to what setup is perfect for your business is probably a mix of mulching and bagging rigs. This guide helps break down the critical equipment considerations that determine whether eco-friendly lifestyle mulching vs. bagging grass clippings makes the most sense for your spring operation — and what parts and modifications you need to do either one right.
Why Equipment Matters More in Spring
Spring grass not only grows faster, but with the added rain, it holds significantly more water than in more dry seasons. Those two factors alone can account for increased equipment related issues such as: excessive clippings clogging the bagging chute, wet/damp clippings building up in the underside of the deck and on the blade, engine strain, and rapid blade dulling due to longer and more robust grass blades.

These are just a few reasons why equipment choice and configuration can help make or break your spring rush.
Mulching Setup: What Your Equipment Needs
For a mowing operation that specializes in residential or small commercial properties, the vast majority of your customers will require a mulching setup. While mulching is faster for the pro and less costly for the customer, it requires more work out of your mower.

Mulching works by cutting grass clippings into pieces small enough to decompose quickly (under ¾ inch) and distributing them evenly across the lawn. This requires specific equipment modifications beyond just closing the discharge chute.
Blade Requirements
Most commercial mowers will come with a mulching blade that is designed to work specifically with that mower. These perform fairly well but if you want to really up your mulching game or just try out some alternatives to the basic mulching setup, here are some suggestions.
High-Lift Mulching Blades (0.25" thickness minimum)
  • Extended cutting surface with multiple cutting edges
  • Increased sail height (minimum 1.5" lift)
  • Harder steel alloy (Rockwell 53-60 HRC rating)
  • Common specs: Oregon 96-607, Copperhead 2187-3
Why thickness matters: Standard 0.20" mulching blades flex under spring's heavy loads, reducing cut quality and causing uneven distribution. The 0.25" blades maintain rigidity in wet conditions.
Gator-Style Blades (Serrated Edge Design)
  • Teeth create secondary cutting action
  • Better performance in wet conditions
  • 15%-20% more effective mulching than smooth-edge blades
  • Popular choice: Oregon G5 Gator series
Important: Do NOT run high-lift bagging blades in mulching mode. The increased airflow designed to lift clippings into a bag will blow material out from under a mulching kit, defeating the purpose.
Deck Modifications
To make sure you are getting the best results from your mulching blades, check your mower specifications to see if you will need to buy blocking plates to completely cover side discharge chute or extended blade bolts for the thicker mulching blades. Also, make sure the deck is level to ensure even mulching and avoid leaving clumps.
Engine Power Requirements
Because mulching cuts grass blades multiple times and requires more work from your mower, you need to make sure your engine has the HP to handle it. Here is a breakdown of recommended mulching HP to mower deck size in case you really want to get nerdy with it:
Minimum Power Requirements for Spring Mulching:
Deck Size Minimum HP Recommended HP
36" 13 HP 15 HP
48" 17 HP 20 HP
52" 20 HP 24 HP
60" 25 HP 27+ HP
72" 30 HP 35+ HP
Red flag symptoms of underpowered mulching:
  • Engine bogs down in thicker patches
  • Clumping appears even with proper blade setup
  • Fuel consumption increases 30%+
If you notice repeated bogging down, your engine isn’t able to maintain the same cutting speed that is recommended for best results.

If you notice any of the red flags, either switch to bagging/side discharge OR slow your roll.
Increased Maintenance
Mow grass. Mow money. Mow Maintenance. I think there was a song about this and we all know they don’t make a song about something unless it’s true. Spring mulching accelerates your regular mower maintenance requirements on some specific components.
Here is a quick list of things to be mindful of:
Blade Wear (Replace or Sharpen Every 20-25 Hours in Spring vs. 40-50 Hours in Summer)
  • Check blade edges daily
  • Sharpen at first sign of dulling (shiny spots on cutting edge)
  • Balance after each sharpening (out-of-balance blades cost 5%-10% fuel economy)
Deck Underside Buildup
  • Scrape deck after every 2-3 lawns in wet conditions
  • Use GrassBuster deck scraper tool (#738-05033) for commercial operations
  • Apply deck coating (MoDeck or Fluid Film) weekly to reduce adhesion
Spindle Bearing Stress
Mulching blades' increased weight and cutting resistance shorten bearing life:
  • Standard bearings: 500-700 hours
  • Under spring mulching conditions: 350-450 hours
  • Inspect spindle play every 40 hours in spring
Bagging Setup: The Equipment Trade-Offs
There might be some companies out there that use bagging setups on most or all of their equipment, but most of the pros I speak with and see out in the field run a mix of mulching and bagging with mulching setups being the considerably larger portion of the equipment.

That said, there are always customers who prefer bagging for a variety of reasons and if even a small percentage of your clients want a more pristine finish to their yard, it might be worth it to consider some of the following equipment and suggestions for your operation:
Blade Configuration
Bagging blades create maximum airflow to lift clippings into the collection system:
High-Lift Bagging Blades Specs:
  • Sail height: 2-3" (vs 1.5" for mulching blades)
  • Thickness: 0.20-0.25"
  • Angle: 7-12° lift angle
  • Steel grade: Hardened spring steel (HRC 48-52)
Do NOT over-lift: Blades with 3"+ sail height on decks under 60" will overload engines and waste fuel lifting air instead of clippings. Stick to manufacturer specifications.
Collection System Components
Soft-Sided Baggers (6-10 Bushel)
  • Pros: Lightweight, less engine drag, affordable
  • Cons: Require frequent emptying (every 5-8 minutes in spring), limited durability
  • Best for: Residential properties under 10,000 sq ft
  • Popular models: Accelerator Ultra (#54400), Toro Ultra Vac (59220)
Hard-Sided Baggers (10-16 Bushel)
  • Pros: Extended run time between dumps, better for wet clippings
  • Cons: Heavier (adds 60-90 lbs to machine), higher cost
  • Best for: Commercial routes with limited dump access
  • Common upgrade: GrassCatcher or Peco commercial units
Blower/Vacuum Systems (Walker MT-GHS, Exmark Navigator)
  • Pros: Massive capacity (reduce dump frequency by 70%), handle debris beyond grass
  • Cons: $8,000-15,000 investment, complex maintenance
  • Best for: Large commercial properties, spring cleanup contracts
Spring-Specific Consideration:Wet grass weighs 2.5X-3x more than dry grass. A 10-bushel bag holds approximately:
  • Dry summer clippings: 150-160 lbs
  • Spring wet clippings: 380-420 lbs
This weight difference affects:
  • Dump frequency (more often)
  • Machine handling (rear weight bias changes turning)
  • Fuel consumption (increased 8%-12%)
  • Tire wear (rear tires wear 30% faster)
Bagging System Maintenance Parts
Increased bagging in the spring will require you to check certain components for wear more frequently. For high-wear parts like fabric baggers, blower impellers, chute elbows and tubes, and blower belts you will definitely need more frequent inspection at the very least.

A good general rule for deciding how frequently you should service or inspect equipment: Take the percentage increase in usage and apply it to the frequency of maintenance. For example, if you are using equipment twice as long in a given month, plan to service or inspect it twice as often as recommended.
Proactive replacement prevents mid-job failures. Stock these parts:
  • Mounting pins (usually ⅜-½" x 3-4")
  • Support arm bushings
  • Adjuster brackets
Spring Specific Equipment Challenges
Summer is hard on your workers. Winter is hard on your wallet. Spring. … Well, spring is hard on your equipment. There are blade speed issues caused by grass buildup. Clogging chutes and decks from wet grass compaction. You can even have issues keeping your mower deck level with all of the added weight that wet, compact grass can add.

I’d like to stress again that it is important to figure out how much more you are using your equipment so you can properly increase maintenance and inspections.

A pinch of prevention equals a pound of….well, you get the point. The upfront maintenance will save you downtime and ensure your finished product is polished and up to your standards.
Equipment Ratios for Mulching and Bagging
At the risk of sounding like every yoga instructor on the planet: “Life is all about balance.”

Every company will have a different customer base but a good general rule is to match your equipment to the jobs you have on the books. If 30% of your yards like to have the clippings bagged, try gearing up 30% of your equipment with lift blades and baggers.

You can adjust if you see opportunities to significantly increase your efficiency, but it makes sense to have equipment that mirrors your customers.

If you are a more visual decision maker, here's a practical decision tree for spring lawn care:
Choose MULCHING When:
Property Conditions:
  • Regular weekly service (prevents overwhelming clipping volume)
  • Lawns under 12,000 sq ft (manageable clipping loads)
  • Properties with distant/no dump access
  • Flat or gently sloped terrain (mulching mowers struggle on hills in wet conditions)
Equipment Capabilities:
  • Engine HP meets minimum requirements (see table above)
  • Deck can be fitted with proper mulching kit
  • Mulching blades available for your deck size
  • You have time for daily blade sharpening
Client Preferences:
  • Environmentally conscious clients who value nutrient recycling
  • Budget-conscious properties where premium pricing isn't justified
  • Low-visibility areas where some clumping is acceptable
Choose BAGGING When:
Property Conditions:
  • High-profile commercial properties (offices, retail centers)
  • Properties with thin turf (clippings smother weak grass)
  • Lawns cut bi-weekly or less frequently (too much clippings volume to mulch effectively)
  • Spring overseeding projects (clippings interfere with seed-to-soil contact)
Equipment Capabilities:
  • Engine HP exceeds deck cutting requirements by 4+ HP
  • Convenient dump access every 30-45 minutes
  • Bagger in good condition (no leaks, impeller balanced)
  • Backup machine available (bagging failures are complete stoppers)
Client Preferences:
  • HOA properties with strict appearance standards
  • Premium clients who pay for a pristine finish
  • Contracts that specify bagging
Equipment Checklist: The MUST-HAVE Parts and Tools
Nothing will kill a productive day faster than having to take time to run to the parts store, or worse, having to wait for a part to come in.

Here is a checklist you can use to make sure you keep on mowing through spring:
Must-Have Spare Parts:
  • [ ] Full set of mulching blades (2 sets per mower)
  • [ ] Deck scraping tools (1 per truck)
  • [ ] Deck coating spray (2 cans per truck)
  • [ ] Blade bolts (extended length for mulching blades)
  • [ ] Mulching kit blocking plates (1 spare per deck size)
Tools Required:
  • [ ] Blade grinder (Oregon 88-023 or equivalent)
  • [ ] Blade balancer (essential for smooth operation)
  • [ ] Torque wrench (blade bolt spec: 37-50 ft-lbs depending on mower)
  • [ ] Deck lift or jack stands
Spring Maintenance Supplies:
  • [ ] Spindle grease gun and high-temp grease
  • [ ] Belt tension gauge (prevents slip-related power loss)
  • [ ] Tachometer for verifying blade speed
For Bagging Operations:
Must-Have Spare Parts:
  • [ ] Full set of high-lift bagging blades (2 sets per mower)
  • [ ] Blower drive belt (1 per mower minimum)
  • [ ] Bagger tube section (most likely to crack)
  • [ ] Mounting pins and hardware
Tools Required:
  • [ ] Fabric repair kit for emergency bag patches
  • [ ] Impeller wrench (specific to blower model)
  • [ ] Zip ties (10-20 on truck for quick tube repairs)
Spring Maintenance Supplies:
  • [ ] Graphite spray for tubes
  • [ ] Touch-up paint for bag frame
  • [ ] Extra bungee cords for securing full bags during transport
Final Recommendations
Do an honest assessment of your customers and equip yourself accordingly. For most lawn care professionals, having a mix of equipment is usually the best option to keep yourself from having too much equipment sitting around most of the year.

Of all the parts and components we have discussed, top priority should be a set of quality blades. A smooth cut can mask a lot of other deficiencies in your equipment and will make the biggest impact on your final results.

Spring is tougher on your mower than other seasons. Make sure you are running your equipment with the best setup for your spring routes.

Mulching saves time per property (10%-15% faster) but requires more maintenance (blade sharpening, deck cleaning).

Bagging commands premium pricing (10%-15% higher) but adds operational costs (dump time, parts wear).

Don’t skip out on engine power. An underpowered mowing setup will end up costing you everything from time, to customer satisfaction, and definitely money.

Make sure your backups have backups. Whatever you spend on having parts handy for replacements and service now, will save you tenfold in lost productivity later

Lastly, just remember that spring is, and should be, an exciting time for your business. Making decisions about your mower set-up can play a huge part in how your experience actually ends up.

With the end being a more efficient, more profitable, less stressful spring, I hope you take a little bit of time in the next couple of weeks to set yourself up for success by finding that perfect balance … of equipment.

Justin Stultz
Justin Stultz, a LawnStarter platinum pro, is a lifelong lawn care enthusiast who started his first lawn maintenance route at 12 years old. Justin owns and operates a lawn maintenance company in Central Texas, and loves spending time with his wife and two children at soccer games, hiking at one of Texas’ beautiful National Parks, or doing yard projects.

The Secret to a Healthier Lawn: Choosing the Right Mower Blades

By Justin Stultz, owner of Wildflower Lawn Care in Hutto, Texas
Ask 3 different lawn care professionals what the secret to a healthier lawn is and you will likely get 3 different answers. Lawn maintenance guys will tell you that regular maintenance is the key to a healthier lawn. Irrigation guys will preach the importance of getting your lawn on a regular watering cycle to keep your yard green longer than anyone else on the block.
Then you have the fertilizer guys, or the Dirt Nerds as I like to call them, who insist that you break down your soil’s nitrogen content and that you learn, what I believe to be made-up words, like “macronutrients” and “microbiomes” and what they mean, before you can even get started down the path to a healthy lawn.
Now, I don’t want to discourage you from exploring any, or all, of these options and I want to concede that each of the above suggestions can be vital to a healthy yard. That said, if you get overly concerned with soil tests and mowing your yard twice a week, it can become harder to see the forest through the trees. Or, in our case, the grass through the weeds.
And while regular maintenance, watering, and weed/fertilizer treatments can definitely take your yard to the next level, usually something as simple as the right lawn mower blades can make a big difference in the overall appearance and health of your yard.
Your lawn mower blades do more than just cut grass — they're the foundation of a healthy, beautiful lawn. Using the wrong blades or neglecting blade maintenance can leave your yard looking ragged, stressed, and vulnerable to disease. Here's what you need to know about choosing the right mower blades for your lawn care needs.
Why Your Blade Choice Matters
Picking the right mower blade most commonly comes down to how much time you want to invest in maintaining your yard and if you live in an area where bagging your clippings is a requirement (municipal codes, HOA rules, areas maintained to wildfire prevention specifications, etc…).
The vast majority of the time, I recommend using the blade that comes with your mower for the simple reason that it was designed to work best with your mower. Big box brands usually have a few replacement options for mower blades including stock blades and blades designed to create more suction for folks that need more thorough bagging.
Another important factor to consider, maintaining a sharp blade affects how cleanly your grass is cut, how well clippings are mulched, and ultimately, how healthy your lawn stays throughout the season. A clean cut allows grass to heal quickly, while a ragged tear leaves grass vulnerable to disease and brown tips.
Types of Mower Blades
1. Standard Lift Blades
These are the most common blades found on residential mowers. Standard lift blades create moderate suction to lift grass for a clean cut and adequate discharge. They're ideal for regular mowing in normal conditions and provide good all-around performance for most homeowners.
2. High Lift Blades
High lift blades feature increased blade curvature to create stronger suction. This makes them excellent for bagging grass clippings and side discharge mowing. If you're cutting thick, tall grass or need powerful discharge, high lift blades are your best choice. They do require more engine power, so make sure your mower can handle the extra load.
3. Mulching Blades
Mulching blades have a curved surface with multiple cutting edges. They're designed to cut grass clippings into fine pieces that decompose quickly, returning nutrients to your lawn. These blades keep clippings circulating under the deck longer, cutting them multiple times. If you prefer not to bag clippings and want to improve your lawn's health naturally, mulching blades are worth the investment.
4. Gator Blades
Gator blades combine the benefits of mulching with improved bagging and discharge. They feature an aggressive tooth design that cuts clippings into finer pieces while still providing good lift. These versatile blades work well for homeowners who switch between mulching and bagging depending on the season.
From all of the information I have read, and the anecdotal information I get from pros I speak to, the type of blade you use won’t significantly impact the amount of thatch your yard accumulates over time.
Other factors like maintenance frequency, timely leaf cleanup, and occasional bagging have a larger impact on thatch accumulation and yard health.
Key Factors When Choosing Mower Blades
Blade Length and Fit
Always check your mower's specifications before purchasing replacement blades. Blades that are too long or too short won't cut properly and can damage your mower deck. Measure your current blade from tip to tip and note the center hole size to ensure a perfect fit.
Blade Thickness
Thicker blades last longer and can handle tougher cutting conditions. Commercial-grade blades are typically thicker than residential blades. While they cost more upfront, they often prove more economical over time due to reduced replacement frequency.
Material and Coating
Look for blades made from hardened steel for durability. Some manufacturers offer blades with special coatings that reduce grass buildup and corrosion. These coatings help blades stay sharper longer and make cleaning your mower deck easier.
Blade Maintenance: The Missing Piece
Even the best blades won't perform well if they're dull or damaged. Sharp blades are essential for a healthy lawn — dull blades tear grass instead of cutting it cleanly, leaving brown, ragged edges that stress your lawn and invite disease.
How often should you sharpen your mower blades? It depends on your mowing frequency, grass type, and yard conditions. To be sure, consult your mower specific Operator’s Manual (if lost, most companies post manuals online) or call your local dealer or repair shop.
Most experts recommend sharpening your mower blades every 20-25 hours of mowing, or at least twice per season. If you hit rocks, roots, or other obstacles, inspect your blades immediately and sharpen or replace them if needed.

Pro Tip: Check your local area for blade sharpening services to save time and hassle!
Signs your blades need attention:
  • Grass tips look torn or brown after mowing
  • Your mower vibrates more than usual
  • You notice nicks or bends in the blade
  • You're making multiple passes to cut the same area
Seasonal Blade Strategies
Consider keeping different blade types on hand for different seasons. Use mulching blades during spring and early summer when grass grows quickly and clippings return valuable nutrients.
Switch to high lift or bagging blades in fall when leaves need to be collected along with grass clippings.
Installation Tips
When installing new blades, always:
  • Always disconnect the spark plug wire before working on your mower
  • Note the blade orientation — the cutting edge should face forward and the wing should angle up toward the deck
  • Torque blade bolts to manufacturer specifications (TRUST ME, BUY A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH!!!)
  • Balance blades after sharpening to prevent vibration
The Bottom Line
Having a healthier and more resilient lawn takes a lot of time, planning, and hard work. Making sure you have the right mower blades for your lawn and staying consistent with maintaining a sharp blade are easy boxes to check that can save you headaches, money, and have a big impact on the health of your yard.
It also helps to produce a polished and vibrant appearance you will start to notice more and more after every cut.
Give yourself a few weeks of mowing with sharp blades and even have some fun experimenting with different blade types. If you still aren’t satisfied or want to really kick things up a notch, you can always call The Dirt Nerds.
And, of course, ProParts Direct can help with all your lawn more blade needs.

Top 5 Home Maintenance Mistakes That Can Cost You Big

“Guy
House projects are a year-long thing, and no matter what you’ve gotten done, there’s always something else on the to-do list. Home maintenance mistakes can cost you big time — a lot of money that (sometimes quite literally) goes down the drain.
Winter, spring, summer, and fall… the list is never ending. But while it may be cheaper to handle most of the simple tasks by yourself, there are some things that should be left up to professional contractors.
When making a home DIY checklist for each season, avoid these 5 mistakes that could end up costing you a lot of money in the long run.
Disinterest
Indifference and procrastination are actually the biggest mistakes any homeowner can make. Houses need upkeep, whether from DIY projects or by professional contractors. Putting off house maintenance may lead to serious damage to the structure’s foundation. (One way to keep yourself in the maintenance loop is to bookmark a home, yard, and garden parts link on your phone or computer). Not paying attention, blowing off necessities, and ignoring signs of termites and other insect infestations could end up costing you a bundle.
Routine Inspections
Checking out the property each season with an eye for detail is something you must do. Make a checklist for each component of the house, such as plumbing, heating and air conditioning, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, foundation inspection, and the crawlspace and attic — just to name a few. If there’s something amiss in these areas, you’ll never know unless you look! Even (or especially) in the best cities for tackling home improvements, inspecting the house is the first step to knowledge — what needs to be done and whether or not it’s a top priority. Putting off until tomorrow what you must do today may lead to a huge maintenance bill.
Heating and Cooling Maintenance
Ignoring your HVAC system can lead to a breakdown at the worst time…during a freezing cold winter or sweltering hot summer. Replacing the heating and cooling system will cost thousands of dollars –– something that would be necessary at some point, of course. But you may be able to put off that hefty purchase by giving the HVAC system a once-over, at least once or twice a year.
Replacing filters is an easy DIY job. But “real” maintenance of furnaces and air conditioners is best done by professionals. Technicians will look at refrigerant levels, air flow, connections, safety controls, and everything else they know about — more than you do. (Watching a YouTube video does NOT make you an expert in heating and air conditioning). Make a mistake with natural gas or electric furnaces and you could end up with a burned-out house.
Plumbing
Just like HVAC, DIY plumbing mistakes can cost you plenty of dough, especially if they lead to code violations.
Fixing a toilet flusher, valve, and leaky faucet are simple enough tasks but most plumbing projects are a bit more complex. Still, one mistake DIYers make is forgetting to turn off the water — not doing so can cause flooding, even if you think you can do the project quickly. Damaged threads or valves can lead to thousands of dollars in water damage. Turning off the main water valve or separate location valves is the easiest way to avoid unexpected – and potentially costly — floor damage.
Licensed plumbers are generally bonded and insured and they know local plumbing codes. Plumbers will inspect the entire system and fix whatever needs to be fixed. If any mistakes are made, they are responsible for fixing them. But if you decide to forgo hiring a professional plumber for any kind of work that leads to serious damage, your insurance company may not pay for any claims. DIYers may cause more damage to the plumbing system that can lead to thousands of dollars in repairs.
Gutters and Roof Maintenance
Gutters get clogged with leaves, bird droppings, twigs, and flying debris. If homeowners don’t clean the gutters at least once or twice a year, the gunk can lead to water damage to the foundation of the house.
At the same time, roof maintenance is more than adding some sealant and replacing a shingle here and there, although that must also be done as needed. Holes, rotted boards, torn or missing flashing, and weakened facades can end up costing a lot — damage that an insurance company may NOT pay for, especially when it’s damage that was done over time (and not weather-related).
House maintenance projects are a concern when homeowners cannot realistically determine what they can and cannot do by themselves. The biggest mistake you can make is believing you can do better than the professionals. That’s when the home fix-up costs get mighty pricy, especially when the pros have to undo all the wrong stuff you’ve done.
“Teri silver
Teri Silver is a journalist and outdoor enthusiast. She and her husband live on 5 acres with a vast lawn, three gardens, a farm, a pond, many trees, and a lot of yard work! The best parts of the year are summer and fall when home-grown veggies are on the dinner table.
Photo by: Eric Schmuttenmaer

Spring 2025 Home Maintenance Checklist

“women
Spring … it comes around every year (thankfully!). And with all the buds, blooms, and bright colors comes an important home maintenance checklist. Cleaning, repairing, and upgrading your home will keep it running smoothly for years to come. Just as important, a well-maintained house and property is a draw for buyers if and when the time comes to put it on the market.

Add these tasks to your spring 2025 (and beyond) home maintenance checklist.
Inside
Spring cleaning is more than dusting, vacuuming, and throwing away junk that’s accumulated over the past year. Here are some inside tasks to add to your to-do list.
Windows and glass doors. Cloudy days are best to wash glass windows and doors because direct sunshine dries the cleaning solution too quickly, leaving streaks. Store-bought glass cleaning products or homemade solutions (1/4 cup rubbing alcohol, 1/3 cup vinegar, distilled water) and a microfiber cloth get the job done. Wipe down window sills and glass door tracks.
Carpets and rugs. Ground-in dirt and pet hair add up throughout the year, and spring is the time for deep cleaning carpets and rugs. Hiring a professional is optimal, but you can rent a rug cleaner to do it yourself.
Woodwork and surface cleaning. Design woodwork, fireplace mantels, baseboards, ledges—clean areas anywhere dirt and grime can settle. Dig your way under appliances and furniture. Curtains, blinds, light fixtures, and ceiling fans get dusty, too.
While you’re in cleaning mode, hit the pantry, refrigerator, and oven. Clean those dusty refrigerator coils—it helps the unit use less energy. In the bathrooms, clean all sinks, tubs, toilets, and showers. On to the bedrooms—wash all bedding, move furniture for dusting and vacuuming, flip and reposition the mattresses. In the laundry room, clean the dryer vent thoroughly.
Indoor Inspections
Making sure everything works properly is a high priority for your home maintenance list.
Window screens. Window screens get dirty and grimy, especially after a rainy autumn and snowy winter. Clean window screens with a blast of soapy water—nozzle hoses and water pressure units are good for this. (Just make sure the soap is thoroughly rinsed out of the screens). Repair any holes (or replace the screens entirely). Be sure the screens are fully dry before reinstalling. (Tip: leaf blowers are helpful in removing loose dirt and drying the screens).
Drain the hot water heater. Cleaning out the tank prevents sediment build-up.
Furnace inspection and cleaning. This project is best done by a professional, but DIYers can change the filters. Furnace maintenance in the spring is the best time to do it so you don’t get stuck with a broken furnace come winter.
Air conditioner. This project is also best suited for a professional HVAC technician. If you didn’t have this done over the fall or winter, do it now. Don’t wait until summer’s heat to find out the AC is on the fritz.
Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Test the alarms and replace batteries at least every six months. (Tip: Write the dates on masking tape attached to the batteries). Working smoke and carbon monoxide detectors can save your life.
Leak detection. Moisture can get into a home’s foundation. A musty, moldy smell indicates the possibility of leaks in the floor, ceiling, or walls. Sink areas may have wetness, especially in the bathrooms and kitchen. Check for wetness around the dishwasher, refrigerator, toilets, bathtubs, and water heater.
Weather stripping protects doors and windows from air that comes in and leaks out.
Outdoors
Yearly outdoor home maintenance keeps the house in good shape. Add these tasks to the checklist.
Gutter cleaning and inspection. Cleaning gutters safely is a chore to do in the spring and fall. Gutters get clogged with leaves, tree limbs, bird droppings, and flying debris from windy days.
Home foundation inspection. Check out the base of the house—look for water damage, cracks, bulging, and buckling. A shifting foundation and crumbling chimneys are jobs for masonry experts. While you’re at it, check out the patio and deck for rotten or warped wood, or cracked cement. Clean out all vents.
Exteriors. Check out the home’s exterior for anything that looks out of place. Vinyl or aluminum siding may get broken or cracked. Wooden trim may need a fresh coat of paint. Replace any damaged Hardie Plank pieces.
Lawn Equipment. Spruce up the mower by cleaning or changing the spark plugs, charging batteries, sharpening blades, replacing oil, inflating tires, and greasing up what needs to be greased. Keep it simple; find a go-to place for mower and yard care parts. Speaking of yard care, prune up the trees and shrubs near the house to keep them from damaging nearby windows and the roof. Test lawn sprinklers and replace holey hoses.
More Outdoor Tasks
Remove standing water to discourage mosquitoes and other insects from breeding. Dry areas that are prone to mold.
Look for termites; they are most active in the spring. If you find signs of termite infestation, it’s time to call a professional exterminator.
Get ready to fire up the grill! Check out all hoses, connections, and propane (if it’s a gas grill) to be sure there are no cracks or leaks. Scrub the racks.
No matter what time of year, putting off home maintenance projects could end up costing you big bucks later on. Set up that spring maintenance schedule today and start ticking off the projects. A little attention now could save some big expensive headaches down the road.
“Teri
Teri Silver is a journalist and outdoor enthusiast. She and her husband live on 5 acres with a vast lawn, three gardens, a farm, a pond, many trees, and a lot of yard work! The best parts of the year are summer and fall when home-grown veggies are on the dinner table.
Photo By: Polina Tankilevitch

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